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dc.contributor.authorBryan, Karin R.
dc.contributor.authorCoco, Giovanni
dc.date.accessioned2010-05-20T04:28:10Z
dc.date.available2010-05-20T04:28:10Z
dc.date.issued2010
dc.identifier.citationBryan, K.R. & Coco, G. (2010). Observations of nonlinear run-up patterns on plane and rhythmic beach morphology. Journal of Geophysical Research, 115, C09017.en
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/10289/3891
dc.description.abstractApplication of non-linear forecasting and bispectral analysis to video observations of run-up over cuspate topography shows that these alongshore patterns in the morphology are accompanied by changes to the fundamental behaviour of the run-up timeseries. Nonlinear forecasting indicates that at beach cusp horns, the behaviour of swash flow is more predictable and global (meaning that characteristics of individual swash events are well represented by the behaviour of the timeseries as a whole). Conversely, at beach cusp bays, the behaviour of swash flow is less predictable and more local (meaning that the characteristics of individual swash events are best represented by the behaviour of a small fraction of the timeseries). Bispectral analysis indicates that there is a nonlinear transfer of energy from the incident wave frequency f to infragravity frequency ~f/2 which only occurs in the bay, suggesting that the local behaviour is caused by interactions between successive swash cycles which are magnified by channelling caused by the beach cusp geometry. The local behaviour and the bispectral signatures are not present in offshore measurements, and are not present in runup timeseries collected when the beach was planar. These results provide evidence that interactions between successive run-ups are a fundamental characteristic of beach cusp bays. Ultimately, these interactions could lead to the growth of an infragravity wave with an alongshore wavelength forced by the presence of beach cusps.en
dc.format.mimetypeapplication/pdf
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherAmerican Geophysical Unionen_NZ
dc.relation.urihttp://www.agu.org/pubs/crossref/2010/2009JC005721.shtmlen
dc.subjectnonlinearen
dc.subjectbeach cusp hornsen
dc.titleObservations of nonlinear run-up patterns on plane and rhythmic beach morphologyen
dc.typeJournal Articleen
dc.identifier.doi10.1029/2009JC005721en
dc.relation.isPartOfJournal of Geophysical Research (Oceans)en_NZ
pubs.begin-page1en_NZ
pubs.elements-id34907
pubs.end-page16en_NZ
pubs.issue9en_NZ
pubs.volume115en_NZ
uow.identifier.article-noARTN C09017en_NZ


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