The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach

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dc.contributor.authorGuedes, Rafael Marcondes Carvalho
dc.contributor.authorBryan, Karin R.
dc.contributor.authorCoco, Giovanni
dc.contributor.authorHolman, Roy A.
dc.date.accessioned2011-08-10T03:19:01Z
dc.date.available2011-08-10T03:19:01Z
dc.date.issued2011
dc.description.abstractSwash hydrodynamics were investigated on an intermediate beach using runup data obtained from video images. Under mild, near-constant, offshore wave conditions, the presence of a sandbar and the tidally controlled water depth over its crest determined whether most of the incoming waves broke before reaching the shoreline. This forced a change in the pattern of wave energy dissipation across the surf zone between low and high tide, which was reflected by changes to swash on time scales of a few hours. Significant runup height (Rs, defined as 4 times the standard deviation of the waterline time series), was found to vary by a factor of 2 between low tide, when most of the waves were breaking over the sandbar (Rs/Hs ≈ 1.5, where Hs is the offshore significant wave height) and high tide, when the waves were barely breaking (Rs/Hs ≈ 2.7). The increase in wave energy dissipation during low tide was also associated with changes in swash maxima distribution, a decrease in mean swash period, and increasing energy at infragravity frequencies. Bispectral analysis suggested that this infragravity modulation might have been connected with the presence of secondary waves.en_NZ
dc.format.mimetypeapplication/pdf
dc.identifier.citationGuedes, R.M.C., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G. & Holman, R.A. (2011). The effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 116, C04008.en_NZ
dc.identifier.doi10.1029/2010JC006660en_NZ
dc.identifier.urihttps://hdl.handle.net/10289/5559
dc.language.isoen
dc.publisherAmerican Geophysical Union
dc.relation.isPartOfJournal of Geophysical Researchen_NZ
dc.relation.urihttp://www.agu.org/pubs/crossref/2011/2010JC006660.shtmlen_NZ
dc.rightsCopyright 2011 by the American Geophysical Union.
dc.subjectintermediate beachen_NZ
dc.titleThe effects of tides on swash statistics on an intermediate beachen_NZ
dc.typeJournal Articleen_NZ
pubs.begin-page1en_NZ
pubs.elements-id35859
pubs.end-page13en_NZ
pubs.issue4en_NZ
pubs.volume116en_NZ
uow.identifier.article-noARTN C04008en_NZ
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